My Haiti

My dad once told me that Haiti “is a paradise for some and a hell for others.” As I stand on the balcony of a home situated in a neighborhood of million US dollar homes overlooking a breath taking view of the entire city of Port au Prince, Haiti while sipping a glass of coconut water nicely spiked with Haiti’s finest Barbancourt rum taking in the sights. In the far distance the grand national palace is clearly visible, while just beneath us a couple of hundreds of yards away is a neighborhood of cinderblock and aluminum shack homes. The truthfulness of my dad’s statement rang more true than ever.


This is the Haiti you WON’T see on CNN, NY Times or in travel guides, this is MY Haiti experience…….

After much pleading on my part and great apprehension on my parent’s part, they finally caved in to my demands to go to Haiti. See, my parents immigrated to the US, where I was born 26 years ago and I’ve waited all my life to visit my native motherland, Haiti. Why the apprehension you ask? One doesn’t have to look far to find horrid pictures of poverty and destitution or news reports of violence, kidnapping and mayhem. Haiti isn’t the type of place where you can trust anyone. The presence of kidnapping, voodoo curses, and corrupt police and politicians makes the concept of trust seem like a cruel joke.

While this was a long awaited dream, I honestly wasn’t exactly excited. Knowing that I was traveling with my paranoid, worry-intense, Haiti-phobic parents, I knew my trip would ultimately entail me sitting inside a house for about 90% of the time with little to no time for sightseeing, fun or adventure. With Haiti having the label of being the ‘poorest country in the Western Hemisphere’, I was expecting to re-visit images of the poverty stricken and violent insurrection that I had seen on CNN. I was very surprised by what I experienced instead. What I instead experienced was something I never could have dreamed of.

Le Jaspora (The Diaspora), The Haitian-American Dream

There is a growing community of jaspora returning to Haiti, bringing in an influx of US dollars to the Haitian economy. With 1 USD equaling 35 Haitian Goode, one can easily see how even a blue collar worker in the US could retire in Haiti as a high class socialite. Several of my relatives have recently become a part of this growing community. Jean, a recent retired doctor and his wife, Gladys, a retired nurse decided to leave the US and retire in Haiti. The married couple purchased a gorgeous home in Port-au-Prince, Haiti and they currently travel back and forth flying to the US periodically to visit their two adult daughters, family and friends.

We always talk about the idolized gold laden “American Dream” that immigrants risk their lives to obtain and citizens grind countless hours working year after year fixated on like a horse with a carrot being waved before it. But what many Americans don’t realize is that many foreigners instead dream only to come to the US to support their struggling family members back home while holding on to the vision of one day returning to their native country to reunite with old family and friends and live a comfortable life with the money earned in the US. This is the dream of immigrants across the board and the secret dream of many immigrant Haitian-Americans. This too was my father’s dream and hope. But it was a dream deferred and hidden away to be forgotten after the death of my grandfather and continual political and social turmoils that have made Haiti dangerous. After my father’s last trip 7 years ago, he vowed in his heart that he would never return…until now.

We stayed with Jean and his wife Gladys, visited jaspora friends of theirs and enjoyed all the luxuries that afforded the jaspora. I nicknamed my cousin’s home le château blanch, the “white castle”, which is what it resembled with its beauty, elegance and grandeur. The white house with painted pink accents was a 2 level, 5 bedroom, 4 bathroom, 2 living room, home with wrap around balcony space on both levels. The swimming pool was replaced with a beautiful patio oasis with a spiritual sanctuary and a garden reminiscent of a rainforest wonderland. There were even separate living quarters for the hired help, complete with separate bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchen for their use. The hired help included a chauffeur (Jean Claude), a butler (Michealange) and a maid (Gina). This gated castle tucked away on a hill was far more grand than their home in Long Island, New York. Talk about moving up! Their neighbors included a Danish delegate, an American actor (sorry, I don’t know who but that home always guarded with armed security guards outside the property) and the Medicine without Borders house to name a small few of the elite.

Each morning, I woke up in my queen sized cozy bed surrounded by the marble and mahogany bedroom set furniture. I made the daily walk through the castle to the opposite end to be met by a table laid out with a breakfast feast complete with freshly squeezed fruit juice presented on the outdoor patio table. I feasted under the shade of the rainforest trees amongst the crisp air breeze intermingled with scents of the garden flowers and aroma of the meal before me. With every meal, I looked forward to seeing what fresh island fruit juice would await me; mango, watermelon, papaya, guanabana, grenadine, cassava, all a delicious treat! I relaxed with a book or my journal on one of the balconies overlooking the garden. Occasionally, I watched just a little bit of satellite TV to watch familiar shows or Haitian movies on DVD in the family room with everyone else. But the bulk of my time was spent venturing outside the home as a passenger in the white Land Rover with Jean Claude navigating my family and me to the many sites of the island.


Jacmel, a Paradise Oasis

Jacmel, the black Atlanta of Haiti, as I would describe it, was bustling with businesses, wealth, development, and beautiful new homes with clean and safe streets. This is the one and only province in Haiti to have 24 hour electricity. Many of the wealthy live and work in Port-au-Prince and spend weekends enjoying the beaches in Jacmel.

The cleanliness of the streets were immaculate compared to the downtown dust and grime of P-au-P. The homes were lovely and massive. The beach was dous, as sweet as sugar. The calming waves layered upon the white sand like rippled whipped cream. We ate a feast of a mountain of grilled fish, spicy lambi(conch), with fried green plantains topped with mounds of perfectly spiced picklies (shredded cabbage marinated with spicy peppers). The lambi was wonderfully decadent with my taste buds performing a spectacular dance. It was the absolute freshest conch I have ever tasted, tasting completely different from anything that I have every previously experienced. Lambi is one of my favorite Haitian meals but that has become extremely expensive to purchase in the US. It felt like a blessing from God to eat lambi 4 times over the vacation on an island where once the order was placed a fisherman would simply row out into the sea and return with plentiful portions. I savored every bite sitting on the white sand beach entranced by the waves and prestige beer in my hand (national Haitian beer).

We visited a hotel in the area that was absolutely gorgeous filled with foreign travelers. It was on a cliff overlooking the ocean.

Hard to believe such luxuries existed in the 3rd world, poorest country in the western hemisphere, Haiti. We were waiting to meet Dr. Joseph, an old time friend that Jean knew from medical school while in Haiti. To my amazement the luxury of this hotel would bear no comparison to the luxury I was about to experience once I arrived at Dr. Paul’s home.

Dr. Joseph grew up in Jacmel with his father owning half of the city. He currently practices as an Orthopedist in NYC and retreats to Haiti for business and vacation getaways. He happened to come into the country that day. He met us at the hotel and insisted that we visit his home….an estate would have been more accurate statement!!

When we arrived my mouth dropped as the gate opened to 20 car driveway entrance complete with an elegant spouting fountain. The full tennis court was visible, although camouflaged by the lush flower garden. If that wasn’t already mouth dropping, we couldn’t control ourselves when we entered into the high ceiling mansion eloquently decorated with marble flooring, plush leather furniture and expensive art work. Words cannot express the further amazement as we walked into the backyard. It looked like more amazing than any travel guide picture of hotels that I could never afford. This was 20 times nicer than the luxury hotel we just came from!!! Complete with an infinity swimming pool that disappeared over the horizon. The home was built on an even more breath taking rocky cliff than the hotel!! The pool cascaded down into a waterfall down to the second lower level. 5 levels of balcony walkways were carved into the rocky cliff leading closer and closer to the sea level below. The further down I hiked the more I could smell the salty ocean and hear the crashing waves below. It was incredibly serene without a soul lurking below, a perfect private waterfront area.

I was unbelievably disappointed since he invited us to spend the night but my cousin turned him down saying that we need to get back on the road!!! :o( I sadly pouting in the back seat wanting to return to the estate as Jean Claude drove back towards P-au-P. We raced the setting sun down the tortuous turns of the winding roads of loops and endless turns around the mountains. A wonderful sunset to end a splendid the day!

ISLAND FUN

There were so many places that I didn’t have time to visit like the Citadel and Labadee island but we did manage to fit in many other great adventures. I will simple highlight some other high points.

We spent another day at the beach at a private beach resort. It was sooo beautiful! There was a beautiful swimming pool area, the beach of course, fine dining restaurant, miniature golf course, basketball and volleyball court. There was this amazing gazebo with a hammock in the middle of the ocean.

Fishermen ventured out into the sea to catch fresh fish for each placed order- so cool.

There even beach front cabana suites for overnight rental. Of course, all the prices were in US dollars indicating the clientele they were aiming for. A bit discouraging I must say. It was a beautiful drive through the countryside with multiple stops to shop and bargain for sugar cane, fruits and live chicken on the sides of the road. And yes, I did say LIVE CHICKEN!!! I couldn’t believe Gladys bought 2 live chickens with their legs tied that she placed at her feet for the entire 3 hour drive back to chateau blanche!!! A very different way of living I must say. Thank goodness we did not eat either chicken during the remainder of our vacation-that would have been weird. I remember when we first arrived and I noticed a dog and chicken roaming in their yard. I naively inquired, “wow, you guys have a dog AND a chicken as pets?” Gladys gave me a funny look and nodded. Boy was so naïve!! Clearly the chicken was not a pet but was a future meal. LOL!! ;o)

The night life was pretty active as far as I could tell. I honestly didn’t really get to go out and party with my worried parents around. But I did get to check out a nice hotel in the middle of town that had a lively casino and nightclub within it. There were several 24 hour eateries. There were 2 really big parties the week I was there that were being advertised all around town. My cousin even got us tickets but my parents were too scared to actually go. I was really disappointed because I wanted to get my Kompa dancing on! There was even a Shaggy concert in P-au-P that week!!! I was sooo hot that I couldn’t go!!! Man, that really hurt, I really like Shaggy and would have loved to go. I definitely hope to check out some night life fun the next time I go. I really look forward to going back to Haiti more frequently in the future. I even got to check out the Healing Hands clinic in Haiti which is a rehabilitation center with many volunteer physical and occupational therapist and physiatrists. I definitely plan to volunteer there during my Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation residency training. Check out the website to see how YOU can help: http://www.healinghandsforhaiti.org/index.html


A NEW HOME

Among other expeditions, we made a special trip to Belvil, a gated Haitian community advertising beautiful homes with 24 hour security. We decided to shop impromptu for a possible new home when we saw a couple “For Sale” signs. It was kind of crazy how my parents went from never wanting to ever return to Haiti to fallen back in love with their homeland and going house shopping just after 3 days! I think my parents were surprised by how different the reality of Haiti was compared to all the news reports. For instance, everyone including my 11 year old cousins all have cell phones!! My cousins living in Haiti had internet- none of the home of the Jaspora I visited had internet. Lottery stands and cell phone card vendors were everywhere one looked. The streets are bustling with merchants and activity. Women walked the streets carrying heavy loads on their heads as a reminder to the old times amidst so many changes- I loved seeing that. New roads had been built although the upkeep of old roads were quite deplorable with potholes wider than my 5’1 frame! Homes were being built every possible place imaginable!

We toured 2 beautiful homes with swimming pools priced at $350,000USD and $460,000USD. The higher end home was a magnificent mansion which my parents fell in love with.

But we just couldn’t fathom paying half a million US dollars for a home in a 3rd world country!! Especially when I could purchase a similar home in south Jersey, ATL, or Orlando for the same price or less and at least have the luxury of 24 electricity, clean tap water and a stable government!!! I couldn’t believe how inflated the Haitian market was becoming!!! At that price we definitely weren’t buying. A country that once had lush green terrain covering its mountainsides now has mountainsides covered with grey cinderblock jungles of dilapidated and unfinished homes. Open land was now becoming an increasingly high priced commodity.

But for a moment I saw a glimmer in my father’s eyes reminiscing on an old dream that seemed so real he could almost taste it. My parents made an incredible sacrifice to come to the US in hopes of giving me a better chance in life while putting their own dreams on hold, never to be fulfilled. Long story, but my father was one year from completing his degree in engineering in Haiti and had to make a life altering decision to leave his eminent future of prosperity and prestige to come to the US to work as a bus driver. My dad has done so much to help me materialize my own dreams, the least I can do was help him realize his dream. I told my dad that if he bought a home in Haiti that I would do everything I could to help him make this a reality.

POLITICS

Police patrolled many intersections and there was a significant United Nation guard presence all over the city. The Haitian and UN police randomly stopped cars to check for possible kidnapped victims. We were only stopped one time by UN police, never by Haitian police. See, my cousin owns a white Land Rover which gives the air of being a “gro zouzoun”, someone of stature and importance. My cousin would simply lower the back window and peak his head out and wave. The cops would smile, acknowledge us and give us the ok to continue past the road blocks.

The week we were preparing to leave to go to Haiti, the news was filled with horrific stories of police officers being kidnapped and crowds rioting. Many of my family members called my parents begging them not to go based on this info. When we got there it was unbelievably calm and peaceful and no one in the country knew anything about police being kidnapping. No one could confirm the news reports we heard in the US and wondered where we could’ve gotten that faulty information. My point is, you can’t believe everything you hear or read. You gotta check it out for yourself. And two, bad press is bad for business. Haiti would benefit tremendously from tourism. Labadee a small island paradise island off of Haiti has been described by many well traveled foreigners as ‘one of the most beautiful beaches in the world’. Several cruise lines dock there, but they never list it as being part of Haiti for fear that it will scare away tourists from purchasing the trips. That’s just a shame. A country that imports most of its goods with few national products truly needs a thriving economy based on tourism.

Being a world traveler myself, the label of being the poorest country in the western hemisphere and news stories of violent rioting and political insurrection, I must say that I was expecting Haiti to be in the worst condition that I had ever seen. But realistically, Haiti was in no way any worse than India, Cambodia or Dominica. It was reminiscent of parts of Brazil, South Africa, Jamaica, China and Dominica Republic. It’s your typical, run of the mill, average, everyday 3rd world country. I didn’t see or experience any violence or crime. Things were orderly with high police presence. Honestly, I was unimpressed. I didn’t feel the reality of the situation lived up to the gravity of its reputation. I hate to sound cynical or insensitive. It’s just that I’ve traveled a lot, even circumvented the entire globe, and have lived and volunteered abroad. So in some ways, I feel like this has to some degree desensitized me to poverty on some regards. Let me explain, in a land of super-sized everything and immediate self-gratification- anything less than this American standard may seem like a life of suffering and pain. But what I’ve actually noticed in all my travels is that, many times those with the least material possessions were often the most joyful and generous people. While the value of Prozac stock seems to be ever increasing, thanks to the US population. Biggie Smalls and even the bible definitely echo the sentiment of ‘mo money, mo problems’ (1Tim 6:7-10, 17 SEE BELOW).

Now don’t get me wrong, I absolutely feel that EVERYONE is entitled to clean water, food and energy as a minimum standard but I just don’t feel that industrializing the world to become more westernized is the answer. I know first hand from living in Barbados while contributing to a longitudinal research study that ultimately outlined the negative effects of industrialization such as the epidemic of diabetes, obesity and hypertension just to name a few. All I’m saying is that not everyone who lives in a hut is suffering…some people choose to live in that manner for cultural reasons and it’s not necessarily a bad thing and they aren’t necessary starving(I didn’t see anyone in Haiti living in a hut). We really have to be culturally aware and sensitive and be okay if things aren’t up to the American standard of living…which is an extremely upscale way of living compared to most of the world!!! I honestly can’t comment on the happiness or hunger level of Haitians because I really don’t feel that I had the opportunity to really interact with regular people living in the countryside because I didn’t spend much time in the countryside and my Creole isn’t the best, limiting my ability to have deep conversations. Most of the people I spoke to clearly had a slanted opinion, being that they were in the middle to upper class. As a soon to be doctor, I’m just saying that I didn’t see any obvious signs of malnutrition (while I’m absolutely positive it exists). It just wasn’t your poster picture of Somalians with bloated bellies.

At the end of the day, Haiti is still a poor 3rd world country with a world of problems. The days have long since past when Christopher Columbus described Haiti as a land with streets paved with gold. Instead, they are laden with trash and hungry children. The once rushing and overflowing rivers and rivenes that once drowned tears of sorrow are now dried up canals flowing with empty Coca-Cola bottles and sun dried maxi-pads.

Despite this, some would gladly trade the high paced lifestyle of strict deadlines necessitating stress-management tactics for the laissez-faire paradise island lifestyle with people catering to your every need. For others it’s a nightmare they would rather not wake up to. For others still, home is where the heart is, and would never dream of giving up their land, culture, friends and family to go to the US or anywhere else…At the end of the day, it’s all about whose perspective you’re viewing it from.

SEE SLIDESHOW BELOW FOR ADDITIONAL PICTURES OF HAITI

COMMENTARY WELCOMED

Welcome Friends

Hello and welcome to my blog page friends,

I invite you to share in my adventures as I travel around the world. If you have ever been on my mailing list during my previous travels, you know that my travels are always full of adventure and fun. Saturday March 22 I embarked on my personal journey to my motherland, Haiti. As always, thanks for listening to my story and I hope you enjoy! Stay tuned for more!